Thursday, January 30, 2014

What an Adventure: Visiting Lima, Peru

So this post is a tad bit late coming, as we went to Lima, Peru more than a year ago, but beggars can't be choosers, and at least I've gotten around to it now.

My company, BNamericas, had an event in Lima focused on energy, and as an old oil writer, I got to go to check out our events and cover the event, too. Because of that, we decided to wrap a little family trip together and stayed over the weekend. It was a quick trip, but I fell in love with Peru in about a minute and a half, and I can't wait to go back!


Plaza de Armas (or Plaza Mayor) was founded by conquistador Francisco Pizzaro in 1535.

Let me give you some quick take-aways from Lima, and then we'll get to some of the great spots we discovered. First off, while Santiago is decidedly European, Lima is exactly what you picture when you think of Latin America -- hot, sweaty, amazing foods, lively music spilling from windows and the friendliest people you could ever have the priviledge of meeting.


Kitties hanging out with the Virgen Mary.


While Santiago is filled with stray dogs, Lima is filled with stray cats, and they lounge throughout the parks and add a bit of character to the city. Additionally, Peru has an ancient dog that was the pet of pre-Inca cultures there. While the people seem to be extremely proud of their hairless ancient pets, I have to say, they are quite ugly.

Trippie doesn't seem bothered by their looks.


We stayed at this lovely and inexpensive bed and breakfast in the San Isidro district called Casa Bella B&B. The hotel is boutique (read: just a couple of rooms) and has been transformed from an old mansion. The people there are extremely helpful, the grounds offered a lovely patio garden where we could sit and let Trip play outside, and the location was a great jumping off spot for exploring Lima.


Ancient Huaca Pucllana pyramids in Miraflores, Lima.

The capital city of Peru, Lima is on the coast of the Pacific. While Miraflores is one of the most upscale neighborhoods overlooking the waters, this modern city is juxtaposed with ancient relics and pyramids from the native people who lived there centuries ago sprinkled throughout the city.


Loads of surfers come to the beaches of Lima to take advantage of the gnarly waves.


One of our favorite discoveries in Lima was the neighborhood of Barranco, which hosts a lovely mix of old buildings, beautiful vistas, bohemian artists, inexpensive B&Bs and lots of bars and restaurants. Founded in 1874, Barranco reminded me of a less commercialized San Antonio River Walk, but exchange the river for the ocean.


Phaedy and Trip on the Bridge of Sighs in Barranco, famous for granting wishes


Also, we got to go to the amazing Magic Water Circuit, which is in Reserve Park and a definite must-see. We didn't really know what we were getting into, but had just heard to go, and boy were we in for an amazing surprise. The public park transforms at night with all the fountains showcasing water, lights and music. It was breathtaking to watch lights transform over the fountain into ice skaters dancing and beautiful cultural dances.



The Troys at the Magic Water Circuit.


Although it's decidedly touristy, we booked an afternoon on a tour bus that drove us around Lima and stopped at the beautiful Museo Larco, which houses one of the largest collections of pre-Columbian art in an amazing 18th centrual mansion.


Museo Larco


I really enjoyed getting to sit in the open-air double-decker bus and see all sorts of neighborhoods and hear the history while Trip napped, and he woke up just in time for the museum, which also had a lush garden that he enjoyed playing in.


Not too shabby! The Troys get to see Lima in a couple of hours (and not get lost)

Truly, you can't talk about Peru and not talk about the food (which is exquisite) and the pisco sours; nonetheless, that is a post for a different day because I could go on an on about the culinary experience that is Peru. So I leave you with a shot of us enjoying a Peruvian pisco sour at Museo Larco, and I definitely will drink to your health!

¡Salud! A happy family enjoying pisco sours at Museo Larco in Lima, Peru.

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Travelling to Pelluhue: Christmas on the Coast of Chile



Fishing boats on the Chilean coast.

This Christmas, we wanted to get away from Santiago -- but not too far. We looked at going to the lake region again, or perhaps Chiloe, but a quaint little cabin in Pelluhue won out because it was an easy distance from Santiago in the car (unlike the others...) and because the calming seas called to us.

Surfers at sunset in Cuñaripe.

Our holiday days consisted of drinking coffee, swimming, taking naps, exploring and cooking dinner, which was really quite wonderful as the pace there was slow and the views of the ocean breathtaking.

Phaedra and Trip on the beach at sunset.


Pelluhue is a very small fishing village in the septima region (7th region/state) about 7 hours south of Santiago. To get there you take Route 5 south, and then you turn off and head for the coast. On the drive to the coast you travel through tiny towns that first specialize in making chicha (a local homemade and very potent wine), then making the beautiful tiles used in Spanish-style roofs, then logging and then fishing.

Fishermen

After you get off the main highway, the trip is actually pretty spectacular as the geography changes from dessert-like to thick forrests, mountains and then the sea. It's exciting to have driven up, up, up on these little roads, to then start the switch-backs down again and watch for when the forrest lifts its veil to reveal the ocean.

A beautiful and deserted valley


While it's hard to compete with Pucon (where we ventured last year for Christmas), this quiet area of Chile delivered relaxation and some pretty remarkable aaahhhh moments. 

Visiting Constitución


One day, we decided to take a little road trip from Pelluhue, and landed in Constitución, a coastal town  supported by tourism, a huge paper mill and logging. The town was destroyed by the earthquake and following tsunami in 2010, but the trail of giant rock formations remained.

Patrick and Trip on the beach in front of Elephant Rock.

We got to walk underneath the piedra del elefante, and its underbelly revealed a beautiful beach that was so peaceful and picturesque. We shared it with a couple of curious fishermen hard at work, but they just added to the experience, as the everday always seems to make the spectacular even more special in Chile.

The Troy family at a hidden beach in Constitución.


In the end, it was a very merry Christmas, and I'm sure it will be a happy new year!