Buenos Aires: The Paris of South America

Over Christmas and New Year's our family traveled to Argentina and Uruguay, getting to spend time in its metropolitan capital Buenos Aires, as well as relax in the countryside of Córdoba and in the historical village of Colonia.

Spectacular View: Crossing the boarder into Argentina

We started our trip with a flight over the Andes Mountain range, which was a magical experience. Flying over the expansive range -- miles and miles of huge snow-topped mountains -- really put the remoteness of Chile into perspective, and set the stage for a vastly different capital city, just a couple of hours' flight away.

Buenos Aires is commonly called the Paris of the South, not just because they boast cutting edge fashion and a keen attention to high quality ingredients and foods, if not customers. At several points in its history, Argentina has been one of the wealthiest countries on the globe, due to vast natural resources and some of the best beef in the world. That opulence, that c'est la vie (that is life -- in French) attitude continues despite Argentina's current political and economic turmoil, evidenced by their most common expression: es lo que hay (it is what it is -- in Spanish).

Snapshot: Buenos Aires offers unique vistas.

But the Parisian connection is stronger than just attitude. When the country was still a Spanish colony, Spain gave favorite families thousands of acres throughout Argentina. Fifty of those families bought up the vast majority of the country, and those families are still the ultra-elite today. Centuries ago, those aristocrats of the country wanted Buenos Aires to rival European culture and brought Parisian architects to plan out the city. They designed a city filled with green spaces, ultra-wide avenues and exceptional architecture -- with some of their expansive estates truly being mirror replicas of European architectural feats.

Getting to Know Buenos Aires

One of the things we've learned in our years in South America is that it's better to start any adventure with someone who knows the ropes. It can be extremely daunting to get from point a to point b, not to mention a bit unnerving if you are not fully aware of unspoken rules and unsafe neighborhoods. Knowing this, we booked a tour for our first day with the No. 1 private tour guide in Buenos Aires, Loli with The Hummingbird Trip, and we quickly discovered why she is so highly recommended.

Despite the chaos of the impending Christmas holidays and the traffic that ensued, Loli drove us around Buenos Aires, identifying key points of interest, and weaving an entertaining mix of history, culture, art and food into our conversations. She showed us the off-the-beaten-path gems that only (some) locals are privy to, and gave us all the pertinent information we needed to explore Buenos Aires on our own in the coming days. Touring with Loli was like getting shown the city by a cool foodie (She's a former chef.) friend who wants you to love her home as much as she does.

Phaedy and Patrick visiting with local artist Ema Herbin.

In that, we ate bondiola from food trucks on La Boca, and were welcomed into the home of notable Porteña artist Ema Herbin. While we munched on cheese and talked urban art with a true urban artist, Trippie painted and played with Ema's son.

Where to go in Buenos Aires

Trippie explores Palermo Soho

We book nearly all of our travels on AirBNB because we're able to get out of hotels and into homes, where we have room to play and cook and be. We spent many an hour daydreaming for this trip, but settled on a cute little apartment in the heart of Palermo Soho, which is the center of everything cool, with cobblestone streets lined with many expats who come to drink coffee in little cafes, peruse the many fashion-forward shops and experience the never-ending nightlife. (In fact, when we awoke one morning to catch a cab to the airport, the bars and clubs were just starting to spill their patrons out onto the streets as the sun came up...)

Recoleta Cemetery

We enjoyed walking the streets of Recoleta, discovering the Recoleta cemetery (where "Don't Cry for Me, Argentina" Eva Peron is buried) and ogling the architecture. We toured the amazing opera house Teatro Colón, but could have skipped the tourist-trap El Caminito.

Caminito was kind of the pits, but we still got a cute picture.

In hand with its amazing beef, Argentina has wonderful leather goods. We loved discovering a family-run leather shop and the ultra-exclusive gaucho-styled Cardon leather shop, but the leather district was kind of a bust.

Eating in Buenos Aires

Patrick ordering some of the best cheeses and meats we've ever had.

As I mentioned, food is fabulous in Buenos Aires -- with fresh ingredients like exquisite beef, fantastic wines, nice cheeses, extensive dried meats and wonderfully diverse fruits and vegetables. Even if the service is lacking, the food is amazing, and well worth the (long) wait in restaurants; and corner fruit stands, neighborhood butcheries, pastelerias (bakeries), groceries and ferrias (food fairs) making cooking at home worth it.

Serious Business: A butcher at work in the Progreso Ferria

Our favorites during this trip were the Progreso Ferria, filled with masters of their craft and some of the best fresh ingredients we've gotten our hands on. We loved having a nice steak dinner at Don Julio, which is a family-run parrillada that has earned its reputation for being one of the best. Well worth the wait for a table, La Hormiga (the ant) was excitingly posh, super tasty and unbelievably inexpensive.

Happy about steak at Don Julio

On Christmas Eve, we went to a little neighborhood restaurant in Palermo, walking from our apartment. There was a set menu, and only a few tables. All the Argentineans were either family or practically so, and the other three tables were foreigners. The food was wonderful, and the atmosphere interestingly intimate. The meal was timed so that dessert was served 15 minutes before midnight, and the owner then put on the TV to watch the countdown to midnight, when Baby Jesus was born. It was very much like our Apple Drop, and after the initial toasts, everyone went outside to set off fireworks, and then came back inside to open Christmas presents.

Celebrating Christmas Eve with fireworks, neighbors and new friends.

I think that you could probably eat at a different restaurant every day in Buenos Aires, and still have new places to discover.

Tips for Visiting Buenos Aires

1. The blue rate for exchanging US dollars into Argentinean pesos is kind of sketchy, but worth it.
2. The Buquebus tourist bus system run by the government was a complete bust. Don't rely on it.
3. Beware pickpockets. Be careful with your money and any electrical equipment.
4. Taxi cab drivers are famous here for speaking the truth about the government and can be very enlightening and entertaining. Don't be scared.
5. I understand the police are somewhat questionable. We steered clear just in case.
6. Drink the wine, especially Malbec. Every.Day.
7. There are two airports in Buenos Aires. One is the national one, right on the river Rio de la Plata and very easy to get to where you are going. The other is the international airport which is at least an hour outside of the city, and expensive to get to. Try to fly in and out of the national airport.
8. Book Loli Delger with The Hummingbird Trip. She'll do an interview beforehand to put together a custom tour just for you. It's worth it, I promise.
9. Check holidays, especially national or religious ones. The city closes, and food/services are scarce on holidays.
10. Go with the flow. That's part of what makes South America and Argentina worth the trip. You have to embrace "es lo que hay," and be willing to stray from plans to really appreciate life here.

Weekend Getaway: Concon Chile

When we need to get outside of the city -- and fast -- we head to a tiny beach town nearby Valparaiso and Viña del Mar called Concon. We've got a spectacular apartment that we rent there, and from the 25th floor we soak up the views of the dunes, watch the waves and relax to the twinkling lights of the Valpo.

Our view from the 25th floor, looking toward Valparaiso

The city of Concon has everything you'd need to spend a great weekend -- from good restaurants to a fully stocked Jumbo (grocery store), as well as fresh seafood stands, veggie markets and bakeries. While finding a decent coffee can be a bit of a challenge, you can always bring your own.

The beach at Concon is popular with surfers

The yatch club in Concon

The beachfront at Concon is dotted with surfing schools, and Patrick enjoys renting a paddle board or surfboard for a couple of hours (including a full wetsuit to be able to brave the frigid waters), and Trip and I can spend hours building sandcastles and playing pirates. There are usually friendly kids to play with as well, which gives me some time to read a book or just enjoy the sound of the waves crashing. 

There is also a popular empanada restaurant that is right there on the beach. La Casa del Mono has more than the typical pino (meat) or cheese options, but also spinach and oysters and corn and pineapple in many different varieties, or where you can build your own. The empanadas are fried to perfection, and the sea breezes make a lunch here pretty special. 

For Patrick's 42nd birthday, our neighbors Valerio and Soraya met us in Concon and introduced us to Pica el Horizonte, which is completely understated and somewhat hard to find, but also a gem of a spot that is always packed and always serves the freshest seafood with a smile. Dishes here are big enough to share between two people, and we've fallen in love with the broiled buttered salmon and the congrio a lo pobre (fried congrio with french fries, fried eggs and sautéed onions), but most people come here for the fresh loco con mayo (conch with mayonnaise).

Patrick's favorite is a sandwich spot that serves up somewhat gourmet options, including a spectacular blue-cheese-stuffed hamburger and a sandwich with tiny french-fried potatoes that Patrick loves. Plus, the guys who make the sandwiches are so nice, they've even invited us to family barbecues. Not bad.

Road Trip: Popping over to Pomaire

Just about an hour outside of Santiago, Pomaire is a tiny little village filled with shops selling clay pottery and restaurants serving Chilean dishes.

Our first trip to Pomaire was with our Chilean friend Ilonka, and she told us that as a child she and her family would catch a colectivo (taxi) to Pomaire to have a big Chilean lunch and pass the day shopping. Things haven't changed much since then, and Pomaire still serves as up a tiny slice of Chilean culture.

There are a number of different types of greda, or clay, that can be found in Chile, and you can tell where the pottery came from by the color of the dishes. The greda in Pomaire is similar to a brick red,  while other towns boast greda that is grey or blonde.

Many typical Chilean dishes are cooked and served in these greda dishes, including pastel de choclo (a corn casserole) and pastel de jaiba (a crab, cream and cheese delight) -- not to mention that any self-respecting pebre (tomato, cilantro, chile salad) is always served in greda.

From bowls to casserole dishes, piggy banks to planters, jewelry to vases, anything you can make from clay, Pomaire has it. Plus there are plenty of tienditas (little shops) selling membre (Chilean wicker) light fixtures and baskets, as well as hand-knitted scarves, sweaters and hats.

And even if you aren't super interested in buying anything to take home, there are tons of restaurants serving up very typical (and very tasty) Chilean food -- from lomo a lo pobre (a pile of french fries topped with a  steak topped with fried eggs and finished with sautéed onions) to chauletas (pork chops) to pino empanadas (Chilean meet pie) to pure con merken (mashed potatoes with spicy merken), surtida salad (fresh green salad with corn, tomato, peas, beets, avocado and more) to casuela (amazingly fresh veggie and meat soup).

Mi Ranchito Restaurant, our favorite for the food and the play park

So if you find yourself looking for something to do on a weekend not too far from Santiago or needing to cure a shopping fix or just craving a good lunch in clean air, Pomaire is a great short day trip from the city.

An Interview with Trippie on his 5th Birthday

I know that our blog is really about our adventuresin South America, but what's more exciting than turning 5 years old?! Usually, I keep my doting posts about Trippie to his page, Trip Notes, but I had to share a bit about him here, too.

Trip's 5th birthday party at his school

We came to Chile the week Trip turned 2 years old, and we've just celebrated our third anniversary of living in Chile, as well as Trip's fifth birthday. Beyond our travels, a lot has happened in the last three years. Our life here in South America has been wonderful and complicated, exciting and challenging, but the best part of the last three years has been watching little Trip grow from a baby into a big boy.

A Power Ranger for Children's Day at school, August 2014

Our Superman when we came to Chile, October 2011

Yes, Trip is bilingual. He attends day school at a completely Spanish school, and he speaks and sounds like a Chilean in Spanish -- and of course a Texan in English. Here's a little more about our littlest member of the family:

Trip's homework: "Bombero" (fireman)

Trip Troy

Age: 5 years old

School: Vitamina Augusto Leguía Norte
Teacher: Camila

Trippie, Kiki and Santi at Plaza Peru

Who are your best friends?
Santi and Kiki, and all my cousins

What is your favorite number?
Five -- because that's how old I am.

What is your favorite color?
Yellow

What is your favorite animal?
Giraffe -- because it is yellow.

What is your favorite super hero?
Wolverine -- because he is yellow.

What are your favorite foods?
Watermelon, pizza, noodles (Asian, Italian or Ramen) and mac-n-cheese

What is your favorite TV show?
Scooby Doo

What is your favorite toy?
Legos

What is your favorite book?
Goodnight Goon (a spooky parody of Goodnight Moon)

What do you want to be when you grow up?
A toy reviewer (He even has his own YouTube channel: Trip Reviews Toys.)

The Troy family at the beach, October 2014

Beach Retreat: Escaping to Zapallar Chile

The beachfront in Zapallar Chile

Zapallar Chile has been one of my favorite discoveries in our three years here. Something like sushi, I wish I had tried it way sooner -- we've been missing out not having visited! Just a couple of hours driving from Santiago, Zapallar is a beach town perfectly positioned along the Chilean coast with a beautiful sandy beach and exquisite views of the sunset.

Sunsets in Zapallar are breathtaking.

We planned a trip here with our family friends the Chacons, or as we commonly refer to them as "the twins," aka Santi and Kiki, and their parents Leanne and Christian. We rented an amazing home on AirBNB, and set out on a Friday afternoon to celebrate four birthdays -- mine, Santi and Kiki's, and Trip's.

Little Trip having fun with his best friends Santi and Kiki

Known as a beach retreat for the elite of Chile, Zapallar features mountains spilling into the sea, a peaceful beach cove and amazing architectural feats. Truly, many an architecture or home design magazine could be filled with the opulent homes that dot the mountains of Zapallar.

Both days of the weekend, we enjoyed the beach -- that of Zapallar and nearby beach town Colchagua. We also soaked up the sunsets from our mountaintop terrace, and Patrick cooked amazing meals on the parrilla (barbecue). The children had tons of fun playing at the beach and running around the yard, and the parents stayed up late star-gazing and giggling.

The women keeping watch on the ocean (see Chilean artist here)

Christian preparing to go boogie boarding in Colchagua

Even though it's quite small, Zapallar hosts plenty of restaurants serving up fresh seafood, and cute little shops to duck into and find a piece of art to take home.

All in all, I highly recommend this sleepy beach town. There are plenty of options for renting homes, although all choices are pretty pricey, further supporting the town's reputation for being only for the wealthy. Nonetheless, it is fun to see how the other half lives -- and I can't wait to go back!

Happy birthday!

Discovering Chilean Heritage: Zenen Vargas and his signs

In line with our September 18 post about Fiestas Patrias, there is a design style that you see here that just says, "Chile," and we discovered the source of that design.

Zenen and his wife Panchita at his studio in San Joaquin

Zenen Vargas is an artist that designs letreros, or signs, that are used throughout Chile. From local grocers to major brands, the signs that Zenen Vargas creates can be found in every neighborhood, as well as in every supermarket. He is the designer of the Emperio la Rosa ice creamery art, in addition to being contracted for dieciocho campaigns for VTR and Becker, among others.

At a fonda in 2013

Patrick met Zenen at a festival, where his kiosk was surrounded by tons of Chileans wanting to buy a bit of history. After spotting he and his wife a number of times, Patrick asked Zenen to create a custom sign for Trip and shared a beer with the artist. They made friends on Facebook, and we've been connected ever since.

The original bus stop sign

This month we were invited to Zenen's workshop, and we got to catch up with this Chilean artist and his wife, learn about the history behind the design, and watch the man at work.

One of the buses that Zenen painted when he was a boy

The story goes that Zenen's father owned a micro (or bus) back in the early 1940s. Back then, Zenen explained, the micros were privately owned, rather than run by the state, and the bus drivers had a lot of pride for their buses. Zenen's father painted his bus and the sign that showed the stops it made, and the other bus drivers liked his so much they commissioned him to do theirs.

Zenen said he started his own style of design for the buses back then when he wasn't much older than our little Trip, and he's been painting letreros since then. Now he's had art exhibitions throughout Chile, and has been named a national pride.

Celebrating Fiestas Patrias in Chile

Fiestas Patrias is spanish for national holidays, and in Chile Fiestas Patrias refers to independence day on September 18, as well as army day on September 19. Commonly referred to as dieciocho (or 18), the holiday includes fondas (neighborhood celebrations), parades, family barbecues, terremotos (a drink, not an actual earthquake), dancing the cueca, watching Chilean rodeos, imbibing in copious amounts of carmenere and other Chilean wines, and definitely at least two days off of work (but sometimes as many as five!).

Cute Cowboy: Little Trip dressed as a huaso at his jardin's fiestas patrias celebration

Dieciocho (and national pride) is serious business here. In fact, there is a law that during the holiday every public building must hang a Chilean flag -- from a while flagpole. The flag must be pristine, and hung a certain way. (A small anecdote: Patrick has a Texas flag handkerchief, and I remember someone being concerned that I was blowing my nose on the Chilean flag -- after all they are very similar. I reassured him that it was in fact a Texan flag, but I've felt weird using that handkerchief ever since.)

Before: The boys get the meal ready

After: Typical Chilean barbecue

First off, being in Chile for their independence celebration is fun and a very unique experience. Nonetheless, it is also a bit lonely because while life here reminds you constantly that you are an extranjero (foreigner), there's nothing like a national holiday to rub your nose in it. (Because of that, we now take advantage of the time off and visit the US that week. But the celebration begins the first of September; so we've still been able to get a bit of the feel.)

Yikes! Trip gets to meet a snake

Fondas

A fonda is a community celebration that can be found in every small town across Chile, and in the metropolis of Santiago, the celebrations spill out of nearly every public park and certainly in every comuna. In three years of celebrations, we've now been to three separate fondas: that of the comuna Vitacura in Parque Bicentenario, the Providencia fonda in the Inez de Suarez park, and Las Condes' fonda in Padre Hurtado park.

Tug of war with Mommy & Trippie

Starting September 18 and lasting until the following Sunday, the massive community parks transform into something akin to a county fair. While the fairs are pretty family friendly during the day, I understand they can get rowdy at night -- and who wouldn't after a couple of terremotos or a glass or two of chicha.

Rough Rider: Trippie riding a tiny pony

Fondas usually include a Chilean rodeo, which is quite different than the ones I've watched in Texas, cueca dancing (which seems easy enough until you try it), empanadas, asado (grilled Chilean meats), a petting zoo and other kids activities, and kiosk after kiosk of handcrafted local goods. Wear comfy shoes and lots of layers as it's likely to be cold and hot and cold again, and bring cash, because there is sure to be something lovely that you can't live without.

Bigtime playtime at the fonda at Bicentenario